For you rivet and button counters out there, I used Aervoe paints which are matched to the US Government's FS595 color specifications for these paint schemes. ( I bought the rattle cans here). The light streaks are sandstone. The models were dry-brushed with VJ Khaki also. I used blue tack with them during that rare warm-up we had last week.
I can use these vehicles for Battlegroup Cold War, Rapid Fire ABLE ARCHER, Team Yankee, really whatever modern game I feel like.
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| After finishing this platoon, I'm going to paint my entire American 15mm force in MERDC, regardless of historic precedent (1983 versus 1984 versus 1985 geez!) I just like how they look. |
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| The Zvezda models are outstanding, too. Lots of detail. Much more so than their M1 Abrams kit... |
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| I had to be careful because I wanted to go nuts with the black "gull wings" |
Again, very happy with how these guys turned out. Hoping the M113s, Mortar carriers, ITOWs, and the tanks themselves turn out like this! Have a great week!
Beautiful job!
ReplyDeleteThank you sir!
DeleteThey do look really nice. The dry-brushing has worked a treat.
ReplyDeleteThanks Norm!
DeleteThose look fantastic, I'm green with envy ;)
ReplyDeleteI tried Blue Tack again this weekend on 10mm metal, big no-go. I didn't squish it down as hard as last time and didn't leave it on as long (on the front and back end); still had good lines, and this time it came off a lot better, EXCEPT it's still pulling paint and leaving bare metal...
I also did a couple plastic jets, didn't have any problems. It seems the pulling paint issue may be more tied to lead than plastic. The only counter I can think of is to try and get more basecoats on the lead before applying Blue Tack.
V/R,
Jack
Thanks Jack!
DeleteSo i am wondering here, and forgive my ignorance, but do you have to clean metals before peiming (like plastics). I know guys that scrub pewter because there is a chemical they use on it to allow it to be removed from the molds.
Worth a shot? The only metal i ever used blue tack on was microarmor and that had 1 layer of black basecoat over metal, followed by base color and i didnt have an issue.
What do you think? Toothbrush and soapy water first? I know youre supposed to clean resin before painting?
Try silly putty as a mask instead of blu tak- I find it works better.
DeleteGreat work on the M109s btw.
Cheers,
Pete.
Pete,
DeleteDoes the SP work for enamel paints or just acrylics? I used SP and it melted on me after using rattle cans.
Ya know, I don't know, I've never cleaned lead models before, might take a look at that. I might try the silly putty, too, had a couple guys bring that up, though melting on my stuff is not going to make me very happy, I'll have to test it out.
DeleteV/R,
Jack
Wondwring if you washed one in soapy water, rinsed, let dry, then used a primer on prior to basecoating if that would do the trick.
DeleteI have not had good experiences with silly putty but thats just me. I use blue tack with enamel rattle cans and have not had a problem.
They look great mate!
ReplyDeleteThanks Paul!
DeleteSuperb paint job on these. The new baseboard terrain really makes it look like a summer's day in the Fulda Gap.
ReplyDeleteCheers Darren that's exactly the look i was going for!
DeleteThese look great in 3's - like something from Hammer's Slammers [itself an 80s sci-fi book series...]. It is funny that the camo pattern is [French for manure]C.
ReplyDeleteYes, you need to clean metel - I finished trimming and filing my GHQ 3rd World Regulars today, and they went into hot water with dish soap for a while, then I scrubbed them down a soft toothbrush. There's usually a powder residue on metal to get them to pop out of the molds better, and you can't always see it before you clean them, but you can see that it's off after you clean them, they look a bit darker and the detail is a bit crisper.
All this being said, Ken says he never bothers.
Not just French. The Portuguese use that word also. Trust me, ive heard it PLENTY of times from the better half.
DeletePronunciation is a little different in this case.
MERDC is an acronymn that i pronounce: "Mur-Deck" because im too lazy to call by its proper name:
Mobility & Equipment Research Design Command, who invented the pattern. So if youre done with OCTW AIW does that mean no more games of it?
I'll say this as a retired US Artilleryman .....you got those spot on!
ReplyDelete